Wine & Food Society Kuala Lumpur
Affiliated to the International Wine & Food Society, London
28th November 2004
Excerpt from The President's Dinner At Third Floor's
letter of invitation:
The Venue and The Chef
The Third Floor Restaurant Bar needs little introduction
as it is one of the top restaurant in Kuala Lumpur and its chef,
Ken Hoh is one of the leading chefs in Kuala Lumpur. Notwithstanding
this, a few words are in order. The Third Floor Restaurant Bar opened
in July 2001 with Chef Ken firmly at the driving wheel. He had left
Cilantro to open this restaurant. At Cilantro, he was the chef since
its opening in 1997. When it opened, Cilantro's contemporary cuisine
was innovative and a breath of fresh air in Kuala Lumpur's culinary
scene. Ken Hoh had prior to Cilantro worked with Australian's most
renowned and celebrity chef, Tetsuya, and brought home with him
a cuisine which is very much inspired by Tetsuya. At Cilantro and
now Third Floor, Chef Ken has continued this cuisine which he says
is "French with contemporary touches and slight hints of Asian
flavours". As before the emphasis is on freshness, naturalness,
simplicity and delicacy. Chef Ken's talent has been recognised as
he has been awarded the Best Local Chef in Malaysia by the World
Media Millennium Gold Awards 2001/2002. For "The President's
Dinner At Third Floor", Chef Ken has prepared a special 6 course
menu for us which Teng Wee Jeh has commented as "very modern
and in keeping with current trends overseas". High praise indeed!
The Third Floor's interior perfectly matches this cuisine. It is
clean, minimal and modern. Glass, marble, dark wood and fabric are
skillfully combined and accentuated by ambient lighting to create
an elegant, stylish and classy interior. With Chef Ken's fine cuisine,
excellent service and a modern and elegant interior, the Third Floor
is a fitting venue for our 2004 President's Dinner.
The Wines
For the delicacy of Chef Ken's cuisine we need
wines of equal finesse. It is appropriate that we go French all
the way. For the first dinner wine we will have the Gosset NV Champagne.
This marque is new to Malaysia but is renowned and rated as "5
Stars, Outstanding" by Robert Parker. As has been said many
times before, Champagne has zest and is just simply great to start
dinner with. It goes well with almost everything and will complement
Chef Ken's hors d'oeuvre plate of 4 small dishes which include Beluga
caviar. For the second course we will have the Chablis 1er Cru 'Vaillons'
Domaine William Fevre. Domaine William Fevre is one of the great
old names of Chablis and remains today a Chablis superstar. Although
Chablis is not a wine of choice amongst many Malaysians, this dry,
mineral scented and acidic Chablis was very well received when we
drank it at Inagiku. It will go well with the citrus cured salmon.
For Chef Ken's Three Taste of Duck, we have selected the classic
match, a Burgundy. I asked Wee Jeh to have the Gevrey Chambertin
2001 Domaine Arlaude Pere et Fils as it is a lovely classic Burgundy
which I have been drinking since it appeared on the Barrique shelves.
The Domaine Arlaude premier cru is of course better but much more
expensive, and this village wine admittedly still young is now accessible.
We intend to pour it early so that it can open in your glass, and
you can also try it with the cured salmon. Although it is just a
village Gevrey Chambertin, it is sophisticated and of premier cru
quality. "Fuller, richer and firmer. Really splendid fruit.
Ripe and sophisticated. High premier cru quality here. Very good
indeed." wrote Clive Coates of this wine. For good reasons
Domaine Arlaud is today a celebrated vineyard.
We will celebrate our gala dinner with two great
wines from Bordeaux from the 1994 vintage, the Chateau La Fleur-Petrus
and the Chateau Latour A Pomerol, both from Pomerol. Before this
we will drink the Chateau Petit Cheval 1994. All these three wines
are from the Society's stocks and were purchased en primeiur by
our late President Lawrence Teoh; hence their availability and affordability
for our dinner. The 1994 vintage has been said to the finest vintage
from Bordeaux after 1990 and before 1995. Members may recall that
at last year's "The President's Dinner At Cilantro" we
drank 3 wines from the 1994 vintage, the Chateau Rauzan-Segla from
Margaux, the Chateau Angelus from St Emilion and the Chateau Pichon-Longueville
Comtesse De Lalande from Pauillac. Whilst we all had our favourite,
we all agreed that all the three 1994 wines are lovely.
The Chateau Petit Cheval is the second wine of
the celebrated First Growth status Chateau Cheval Blanc from St
Emilion. For many, the second wine of a great chateau is the smart
way to drink. It offers not only value but accessibility, drinking
a baby version of the grand wine earlier. Wee Jeh drank the 1994
Petit Cheval recently and raved that it is drinking beautifully.
It will be lovely with the braised Wagyu cheek. Robert Parket rated
Pomerol to be the top Bordeaux region for the 1994 vintage, and
the Chateau La Fleur-Petrus and the Chateau Latour A Pomerol as
amongst the best from the 1994 vintage. Of the Chateau La Fleur-Petrus
Parker wrote: "The attractive kirsch, cherry, pain grille nose
is followed by a medium-bodied, restrained, pure, measured wine.
The 1994 offers an impressively saturated colour as well as an inner
core of sweet, concentrated fruit and moderate tannin in the finish.
All the richness, extract and balance are present in this closed
but impressively endowned wine." As for the Chateau Latour
A Pomerol Parket opined: "This wine posseses a deep dark purple
colour, a pungent, jammy, strawberry, black cherry, weedy tobacco,
and spicy nose, attractive fatness and ripeness, medium body, low
acidity, and a sweet, long, lusty finish. It is a delicious style
of Latour A Pomerol." We believe that both the Chateau La Fleur-Petrus
and the Chateau Latour A Pomerol are grand wines and befitting the
occasion of our black tie charity gala dinner. The wines have over
80% Merlot and will be supple and seductive. They will have nuances
and complexity in both aromas and flavours as they unfold in the
glass and as we sip them until the last mouthful which will always
be the best. The two wines are for you to compare and evaluate or
simply to just enjoy with your low-temperature roasted lamb.
The menu for The President's Dinner At Third Floor consisted of the following: