 Fine dining on a higher level This month, the Gourmet Club moves up to Third Floor at JW Marriott Hotel for fine dining on higher ground Vision KL, July 2002 issue ABOUT THE GOURMET CLUB THE PLACE Once inside, you realise that these subtle touches of individualism are reflected everywhere. From the bar area with its light-box seats and Moulin Rouge-style curtains, that are neither long nor short, to the "fibre optic pillar" which fades subtlely from one colour to another. "It's minimalistic," states Michael Chong, director and founding partner of the restaurant. "From day one, we wanted a décor that is simple and flexible. Where we can move tables around to accommodate up to 200 guests comfortably." "If you look around, you will see elements of steel, wood, stone, fire and water. And we try to combine all these for a conducive 'smart casual' dining experience." When asked a seemingly obvious question like why "Third Floor" as a name for the restaurant, Michael laughs: "Well, we did start off with some names like Con-fusion, Black Bird and Level Three. Con-fusion sounded corny, Black Bird didn't sound very nice in Chinese and Level Three sounded like 'lavatory'. In the end, we decided to just call it Third Floor." "As for branding, well, our Chef Ken Hoh, is the brand," Michael adds confidently. The multiple award-winning Chef Hoh has had an illustrious career. He started with Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur in 1985. After five years he moved to Australia where he worked with some of Sydney's best chefs, before making his name at Tetsuya's and Rockpool which both won 'restaurant of the year' awards. He came back to Malaysia in 1997 to take up the Executive Chef position at Cilantro Restaurant, during which he steered the restaurant towards a coveted place on the gourmet map. Three years later, he teamed up with Michael Chong and a few other partners to start Third Floor. Chef Hoh's early technique was distinctively French but over the years, with the blend of Asian and Japanese influences, he has become more fusion-oriented. "Nowadays there are no boundaries. I use ingredients from all over the world. For instance, soya sauce instead of butter to enhance flavours. About the only tinge of pure French you can detect on the menu now is, of course, the foie gras."
THE EVENING Gourmet Club founder and Vision KL publisher, Steve Day formally welcomed the guest-of-honour, YAM Tunku Tan Sri Imran ibni Tuanku Ja'afar and other guests. Michael Chong of Third Floor then offered his own words of welcome and briefed the guests on the evening's menu. After the traditional group photo session, the guests were seated at a long dining table. The first course - Snow Cauliflower with Oscietra Caviar and the Scallop with Sea Urchin Sauce & Sevruga Caviar - took the guests by surprise. The combination served on two small tablespoons, had guests pausing for a moment, turning their plates around and wondering what they should do next. The more intrepid ones simply popped the tablespoons into their mouths with the rest following suit. Michael was overheard saying: "If you had taken the cold Snow Cauliflower first followed by the hot Scallop with Sea Urchin Sauce, you would have done the right thing." The fruity and light South African Springfield "Life from Stone" Sauvignon Blanc 2000 followed. With the guests' curiosities suitably aroused, the next course of Boned Quail, Deep Fried Duck & Whole Roasted Foie Gras was served. This proved to be a favourite for most of the guests. The Chilean Vina Porta Reserve Chardonnay 2000 followed. "I didn't know Chilean wine could taste so good," one guest remarked. What followed was the Farmed White Spotted Snapper, Bottarga and Celeriac Puree with Organic Black Beans, another unique combination. In typical Gourmet Club tradition, guests changed places during the course of the evening so that everyone had the chance to share their dinner conversations. Tan Sri Abu Sahid regaled all present with a continuous stream of witty stories while Ruthlene, his poised and lovely daughter, looked on with amusement. Saving the best for last, Chef Hoh brought out his newest creation, the Wagyu Beef with Mushrooms, Calamansi and Soy Sauce which had almost everyone bowled over. The tender and succulent wagyu beef, farmed in Australia, is actually cloned from kobe beef. The livestock is fed a special diet of high quality grass and even beer! As if acknowledging their pièce de résis-tance, Third Floor served up not one but two wines to accompany the Wagyu Beef, namely the South African Rupert & Rothschild "Classique" 1998 and the Chilean Vina Porta Gran Reserve 1999. For those who thought they were missing out on the live World Cup soccer match being played that evening, they had Tunku Tan Sri Imran, ever the ardent sports fan, to ensure that they were kept updated. At different times, he would clink on his glass and announce the score. Towards the end, he announced: "Ladies and gentlemen, the final score now is South Korea 2, Italy 1", to thunderous applause. During an interlude, Steve Day got up and introduced each and everyone of the Gourmet Club guests with great panache, adding his own interesting anecdotes from what he knew of the guests. When Steve read out HE John von Mühlen's background (which included a stint in Russia), His Excellency responded in mock horror: "Hey, who told you that?" to which someone responded: "The KGB did!" amid laughter all around the table. The guest-of-honour, Tunku Imran then took his turn. He thanked Third Floor for the exquisite evening and Vision KL for continuing the fine tradition of organising Gourmet Club events continuously for the past three years. He went on to thank the guests and added: "Apart from we Malaysians, there's enough different nationalities here to form the United Nations! There's His Excellency John von Mühlen (the Dutch ambassador) who happens to be an expert in Chilean wine, Knut Herzer from Germany, Hiroatsu Machida from Japan, Chris Robinson from Australia, Robin McClellan from the US, and not forgetting, Steve Day from Britain. Diplomats, businessmen, oil men and steel magnates, among others. But what's wonderful about this evening is being in the company of friends enjoying an evening of fine dining in an elegant setting here at Third Floor." He then proceeded to tell some dinner jokes which had the guests in stitches. To round up the menu, Ginger and Lemongrass Espuma, Mint Sorbet & Guava Soup, and Caramelised Pineapple & Licorice Ice Cream were served, accompanied by the sweet Hopler Noble Reserve 1981. At this point, Eddy Chieng sighed: "I shouldn't have devoured all the courses completely. Now I am so full I can't take anymore." During coffee, fashion doyen Farah Khan, was spotted drawing a few elegant puffs on her cigar while enthusing over the evening's progress with Lim Meng Hong and Vision KL's MD, Su Wai Fun. THE VERDICT All the dishes served to the Gourmet Club guests are available on the menu so you can try them out, too. When one visits Third Floor, one must be open-minded and be prepared for the unexpected. "You can, of course, leave us to recommend you something special, if you have no restrictions on the kind of food you can eat", adds Chef Hoh. Third Floor, almost one year old now, already has quite a following among the gourmet glitterati. But the restaurant is not resting on it's laurels. "We aim not only to please, but to give a unique dining experience to everyone who comes here," says Michael Chong. And the last word on the evening? Perhaps Steve
Day put it best when he said: "At the end of the day, it's
all about having fun when fine dining and that's what we've all
had at Third Floor!" |
|||||
|
