 Delicate flavours and first-class ingredients dominate Ken Hoh's Third Floor Wine & Dine, November 2001 There is a great sense of anticipation when you dine at Third Floor for the first time. Not least because executive chef Ken Hoh's numerous fans have dubbed his cooking akin to "standing on the edge of a cliff, only to fall off and fly with angels." Nestled in the elegant confines of the JW Marriott hotel, the mnemonic-named restaurant opened three months ago, ending the anticipation for foodies who have lamented his absence from the Kuala Lumpur culinary scene. Now, back with a band, his mark is indelibly stamped on everything, from the menu to the restaurant's stylish interior, the latter is a study in chic minimalism, with black and silver as predominant hues. What makes Third Floor stand out from the other restaurants in town is that is offers only a dégustation menu, which changes on a daily basis and is planned according to whatever choice ingredients that are available. The culinary style is simple - diners are offered only the best produce, which is paired with simple sauces, and prepared with a delicate touch. We nibbled on a serving of amuse bouche while deciding what to order from the carte du jour. The menu bore traces of Tetsuya (Ken was a protégé) and included choice offerings like scampi with caviar and cauliflower cream, confit of ocean trout with konbu, raw tuna with warm olive and truffle sauce and seared foie gras with soy braised sweet bread. We began wit the scampi and cauliflower cream, which was paired with Veuve Clicquot Gold Label, Third Floor's house-pouring champagne. The raw tuna that followed was delightful, but it was the confit of ocean trout that had us searching for superlatives to describe it. Slightly different from Tetsuya's version, which is served with roe and celery, Ken has simply garnished his with konbu, chives and a drizzle of parsley oil. Heavenly! From angel hair pasta with scampi and boutargue to scallops with shimeiji mushroom and sea urchin sauce, each dish is a melange of tastes and textures. Ken also has an affinity for greens like wakame, parsley and shiso leaf, and they are used liberally to add delicate colour and flavour to his dishes. From seafood, we moved on to our entrees of venison and duck. The seared venison, served with celeriac mash and goose liver sauce was exquisitely tender. Done to a perfect pink was the magret of duck, which was well-paired with a fig and Sauternes sauce that provided mellow nuances to the dish. Having done justice to five divine courses, we felt quite full and satisfied. But we gave in to temptation after scanning the selection of cheeses and desserts on offer. We decided upon the warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, and the lime and ginger crème brulée. Liquid bittersweet chocolate oozed out from the centre after each forkful of bliss, while the sinfully rich crème brulée was thick crusted and adorned with tuille and berries. If you're into fromage, you'll be pleased with the restaurant's selection that includes Gorgonzola, chevre cabris, tome de savoie, brie and reblochon. "I didn't even have a concept in mind when I opened Third Floor," said Ken. "I just wanted a place where people could linger and enjoy simple but tasteful food. Ultimately, it should be the food not the venue that draws the crowds. When the food's simple, the ingredients good and the cooking is right, you don't need anything else." |
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